Schmargendorf: a feel-good oasis of superlatives

The big city feels miles away when you are in charming Schmargendorf… and yet you are still in the heart of town. A 15-minute bus ride is all it takes to get here from the lively Ku’damm boulevard. The proximity to the city, coupled with its idyllic setting on the edge of the Grunewald forest, enticed summer holidaymakers to flock to Schmargendorf as early as the end of the 19th century. The neighbourhood hasn’t lost its appeal to this day. Schmargendorf is a lively borough with a feel-good factor, which also boasts some superlative features: the smallest village church, the first high-rise apartment block, a secret underground bunker and what may be the city’s most popular place to get married. Whether soon to be married or not, though, you simply have to fall in love with Schmargendorf, where a village-like charm is combined with all the modern comforts of the big city.

The Village Church in Schmargendorf

It’s easy to miss the simple fieldstone church in the centre of Schmargendorf. This is not just because of the trees that surround it scenically, but also because of its size. The interior is merely 66 square metres in size. This makes the village church of Schmargendorf the smallest of its kind in the Berlin area. For seven hundred years, however, the size of the church was perfectly adequate. Both church and village were probably founded in the early 13th century. The name Schmargendorf is likely derived from ‘Margrevendorf’, the ‘margrave village’. The entire area around Berlin was under the protection of the Brandenburg margraves (noblemen) at that time. New arrivals farmed and bred sheep and fished in Lake Wilmersdorf. The Wilmersdorf family had private ownership of the village for several hundred years. It was not until the beginning of the 19th century that farmers were given the opportunity to buy the land they farmed. There were still fewer than one hundred inhabitants in Schmargendorf at that time.
The 19th century brought changes with it, not only for farmers but also for the small village church. The gable of the church was adorned with a half-timbered tower, which is only covered with wooden planks today. The nave was remodelled, and finally, pews were installed. Churchgoers had been standing during services until then, kneeling on the bare stone floor to pray. 1937 saw further major renovations take place. The original Gothic interior was reconstructed and the floor was torn up to instal a heating system. To great surprise, human remains were uncovered during this process. They belonged to seven members of the famous Wilmersdorf family, who had been buried in the church three hundred years earlier. The popular Hans von Wilmersdorf was buried there, who was known far beyond the borders of Schmargendorf. He was a counsellor of the court in Berlin and had earned diplomatic merits during the Thirty Years’ War. Von Wilmersdorf was honoured with a funeral service at the Nikolaikirche in Berlin following his death in 1636. He was laid to rest with his neighbours in the village church in Schmargendorf, however, as was his wish. Which was then forgotten over time. It was the golden wedding ring on his finger that revealed his identity in the end.
Should you wish to continue your sombre tour of gravesites, you may like to visit the tranquil cemetery behind the village church. The terraced grounds entice one to go on a rather morbid discovery tour. The painter Max Pechstein (1881-1955); the founder of the Schmargendorf-based school book publisher, Franz Cornelsen (1908-1989); and aviation pioneer Melli Beese (1886-1925) are buried here. She was the first German woman to obtain a pilot’s licence, later establishing her own flight school and even designing and constructing motorised aircraft herself.

Breite Strasse — A Broad Road

Schmargendorf remained a small, rural farming village for a long time. This was to change around 1890. At first, the unpaved village street was renamed Hauptstrasse (main street), which then became Breite Strasse (broad street) a few years later. Gradually, new Wilhelminian-style buildings replaced the old farmhouses. Breite Strasse, along with the neighbouring Berkaer Strasse, emerged as the most important commercial area in Schmargendorf. And they remain so to this day. Breite Strasse, however, did not live up to its broad description until the 1960s, when it was expanded into a six-lane arterial road, in keeping with the spirit of the times. The entire development on the southern side of the street had to make way for the roads, and was replaced by an ensemble of buildings with shop pavilions and a small passageway.
The lively and bustling atmosphere seen here today is due to shops such as the Schmargendorf bookshop. Not only has it been selling books for almost thirty years, but it is also a cultural institution in the area, with its carefully curated selection of books, and its events and readings. The owner was a very dedicated spokesperson for a local business network for many years. The network is still active but is currently being reorganised. It pools the interests and strengths of local businesses and service providers in the neighbourhood and incorporates them into joint marketing campaigns, promoting the area. This strengthens the bond between Schmargendorf residents and their borough.
The old Schmargendorf, with its courtyards and charming outbuildings, has almost disappeared from Breite Strasse. However, the romantic beauty of the early 20th century is still on show behind house number 20. Upon entering the cobbled courtyard, low brickwork outbuildings and small benches delight the eye, with decorative flower arrangements nestled beneath them. Amongst other things, there is a small gallery and a shop where you can buy beautiful, colourful German fabrics, which are produced using traditional methods. The courtyard is a hidden gem in Schmargendorf, helping ease the loss of the last old farmhouse on Breite Strasse, just a few metres away. It was demolished in 2017 to make way for a new building.

Kolberger Platz

Kolberger Platz was named after a West Pomeranian seaside resort in 1908, now the Polish town of Kołobrzeg. The surrounding streets — and not just those, but most of the streets in Schmargendorf — are also named after health and seaside resorts. This is no coincidence, but rather an early example of skilled urban marketing. The construction of the circle line railway (Ringbahn) tore Schmargendorf from its quiet village slumber. The Schmargendorf S-Bahn station (today: Heidelberger Platz station) was, in fact, relatively far away from the town centre. This was due to the opposition of local farmers, who refused to sell their land for development and feared that the sparks from passing steam trains could set fire to their fields. Their favoured solution: no suburban railway connection to Schmargendorf at all. The new tram lines to and from Schmargendorf which ran from 1888, however, put an end to the peace and quiet. More and more city dwellers on excursions passed through Schmargendorf on their way to Grunewald forest. Dozens of countryside inns on the edge of the village invited visitors to linger on. Even the previously critical farmers soon recognised the economic potential of ‘summer refreshers’. They began to renovate their outbuildings and rent them out as vacation accommodations. One newspaper even exclaimed in 1890, “The little village, whose name a few years ago was barely known, has already become an indispensable, climatic health resort for numerous residents, who come here to the ozone-rich air of the Grunewald forest as a substitute for a holiday in the Thuringian Forest.” An image like this had to be nurtured, which is why the newly built streets in the growing Schmargendorf were given names associated with health and recreation. Ever wealthier newcomers chose to live there permanently. They appreciated the quality of life in Schmargendorf, and had the means to afford it.
The triangular Kolberger Platz was the official market square for residents of Schmargendorf from 1913. And so it is today. A weekly market for fresh and regional produce is held every Saturday (and often on Wednesdays). If the market isn’t on, the farm shop on Kolberger Platz is the place to go for a wide selection of organic produce. This chic, modern shop wouldn’t be out of place in one of Berlin’s trendiest neighbourhoods. Many of the products on offer come from the shop’s own farm or nearby regional producers. And if the hunger is too great to wait, you can, of course, enjoy homemade cakes right next door in the farm shop café.

Schmargendorf Town Hall

What do Albert Einstein, Ernst Lubitsch, Romy Schneider, Harald Juhnke, Curt Jürgens, Roland Kaiser, Paul Kuhn and Ingrid Steeger have in common? They all said, “I do!” in Schmargendorf Town Hall, helping to cement its reputation as one of the most popular wedding venues in Berlin. But let us start at the beginning: when the new town hall was completed in 1902, the people of Schmargendorf weren’t just amazed by its size and splendour, but also at the cost of building it! Potsdam architect Otto Kerwien created a beautiful, huge brick building that is still impressive today. Above all, however, it demonstrates the ego of the booming borough of Schmargendorf at that time. There were approximately 2000 inhabitants in Schmargendorf in 1899, when it was granted the status of an independent district. A new town hall was needed. One that would demonstrate that Schmargendorf’s rise was far from over. The municipality drew the funds for its construction from taxes received through the sale of land. The land was required for the extension of the Hohenzollerndamm road.
The town hall boasts a successful mix of design styles, derived from various Gothic buildings in Brandenburg, mixed with a touch of Art Nouveau. This lends the playful character of a fairytale castle to the building. Steep gables are decorated with colourful mosaics depicting the coats of arms of various noble families.
When Greater Berlin was founded in 1920, the rural community of Schmargendorf became part of the newly founded administrative district of Wilmersdorf. Schmargendorf Town Hall became the seat of the Wilmersdorf registry office. Subsequently, the picturesque building became a sought-after place to tie the knot, favoured by celebrities and average Berliners alike. The fact that the registry office moved out in 2014 has not dampened its appeal. Couples still get married in the nine-metre-high council chamber, which is decorated with motifs from Richard Wagner’s The Valkyrie.

The Former Care Home of the Jewish Community of Berlin

Mere steps away from the lavishly decorated town hall, an elongated building strikes one with its contrasting style: simple elegance. It is Haus Wilmersdorf, a care home for the elderly run by the Vivantes Hospital Group. The building had previously functioned as a hospital, housed the counter-intelligence service of the National Socialists, and was also a British barracks with an officers’ mess following World War II. It was originally built in 1930 as a retirement home for the Jewish Community of Berlin and could house 180 residents. In 1941, the Nazis confiscated the property and deported both residents and nursing staff. All were murdered in a concentration camp, as was the building’s architect, Alexander Beer. He had been head of building projects for the Jewish Community of Berlin since 1910. He designed structures in the style of the New Objectivity in the 1920s, including the Prinzregentenstrasse Synagogue and the Jewish Girls’ School in the district of Berlin-Mitte. With its curved balconies, recessed upper storey and bright, horizontal colour detail upon the façade, the former retirement home fully conforms with the aesthetics of the Weimar era.
Many more examples of 1920s architecture can be found in Schmargendorf. In 1911, it completely broke away from its rural origins, when the municipality decided to no longer allow farming on its land. Most farmers had long since turned their fields to gold, selling them for development. The advent of World War I prevented rapid development, however, and there were still large empty plots in many streets at the beginning of the 1920s. These were only gradually filled. The Weimar Republic era then gave rise to diverse and interesting residential ensembles, such as the Reichsbanksiedlung in the area around Kissinger Platz and the Lentze-Siedlung on the south-eastern border of Schmargendorf, which was built for employees of the Prussian Finance Directorate. These residences remain sought-after living accommodations to this day.

The ARTIST HOMES Bunker

Code name: Trafo. This was the name of the secret bunker project that began in Schmargendorf in 1937. An underground facility was created for the Luftwaffe (air force) telecommunications department at Hohenzollerndamm 120. Protected by a one-and-a-half-metre-thick concrete ceiling, it was accessed conspiratorially via a post office on the street. Today, things are less secretive. The modern glass entrance area, which leads underground, is located in a car park. A surprisingly bright room awaits visitors below, which is no longer dedicated to the military, but entirely to the enjoyment of art. South Korean jazz guitarist Jong-Ha Kim, who studied philosophy, has made a dream come true with the art bunker ARTIST HOMES. His concept is based on the idea of an open house for all kinds of art. ARTIST HOMES has hosted exhibitions, concerts, theatre performances, lectures and readings since 2015. With an area of 800 square metres, there is definitely enough space here for a wide variety of artists. In addition to a large space which accommodates 200 people, there are smaller rooms in the bunker that can be used as studios, workshops or rehearsal rooms. Keeping the noise to a minimum isn’t an issue either, thanks to the thick concrete ceiling.
Actually, there was art on display in the bunker before Jong-Ha Kim moved in. The unpainted walls are decorated with colourful drawings that the soldiers drew there long ago. There are pictures of themselves and of their daily work. Jong-Ha Kim had these drawings restored, as he is not is only interested in contemporary art, but also in the history of this special hidden place in Schmargendorf.

The Protestant Church Kreuzkirche

When things do not go as planned… it might actually be good. Had everything gone to plan, Schmargendorf would not be home to perhaps the most spectacular 1920s sacred building in Berlin. The modest village church had long become too small for the Protestants of Schmargendorf and a competition was held in 1910 to design an additional church building on Hohenzollerndamm. The architect Ernst Paulus won the contract in what had been a ‘home’ game for him. Not only had he already designed a number of churches in Berlin, he had also just built his own house in Schmargendorf. The construction of the church was put to a halt by the First World War and the extreme inflation of the early 1920s. Then, news spread of a new Catholic church being built for the many new worshippers in the district. The Protestant community pushed for their project to begin, with the aim of being the first to have their new church erected in Schmargendorf. Ernst Paulus, who was working with his son Günther by this time, felt that his original design from 15 years prior was no longer up to date and revised it. The design which father and son then presented was described as the “pinnacle of modernity” at the consecration of the Kreuzkirche (Church of the Cross) in 1929. This term was not always meant as a compliment. To this day, opinions are divided on the design of the church. The Kreuzkirche is not unlike a fortification, due to its towering, expressionist brick design. The expansive, three-pointed tower on the corner of the street rises boldly into the air, “…as if in defence against the hustle and bustle of the world”, as the architects described it. In contrast, the pagoda-like entrance is playful, with its blue ceramic tiles and Asian influence. Primarily, it is the interior colour scheme which makes the Kreuzkirche so special: the bridal hall is yellow, the cloister space is red, the curved pews are painted matt blue. Thanks to the sloping floor, all church-goers have a good view of the terra-cotta-coloured altar area, even from the farthest pews. The zig-zag pattern behind the altar could serve as the backdrop for an expressionist silent film. The parish has long recognised the potential of its church and now welcomes the “hustle and bustle” from outside into the Kreuzkirche. In addition to church services, there is an extensive cultural programme. It includes cinema evenings accompanied by organ music, such as a screening of Nosferatu — a silent film classic from 1922.

Grunewald Synagogue

Standing at Franzensbader Strasse 7-8, you face simple residential buildings from the 1950s. The fact that a unique synagogue once stood here is only revealed by a plaque at the houses and a window display at the bus stop. After Greater Berlin was formed, Wilmersdorf, which now included Schmargendorf, had the highest proportion of Jewish residents of all districts at over 13 percent. Many new synagogues and Jewish institutions were required. The Grunewald Synagogue Association came across a rather unorthodox property in Schmargendorf while searching for a new place of worship: The ‘Franzensbader Garten’. This country-style villa featured half-timbering, carved wooden embellishments and a turret. It was built around 1900, and was known as a dance venue and locale to visit when on excursions. In 1923, it began a second life as the ‘Grunewald Synagogue’. The former dance floor was converted into a prayer hall with a capacity of 400 people. In addition to this, apartments, rooms for rabbis and societies, and meeting rooms for the community were created on the top floors. On the ‘Night of Broken Glass’ on November 9th, 1938, the Grunewald Synagogue — like most synagogues in Berlin — was burned down and destroyed. Three years later, the remaining parts of the building were demolished. The comment from the building authority that preceded the demolition is akin to a mockery: “Reconstruction of the synagogue for commercial purposes seems uneconomical (…) The burned ruins have a highly disruptive effect on the streetscape and therefore represent a disfigurement that is particularly harmful to the public interest.”
Fortunately, you only have to go two blocks further to see an intact Jewish establishment in the neighbourhood today: Auguste-Viktoria-Strasse has been home to the Israeli embassy since 2001.

Schmargendorf’s Culinary Mile

When you reach the wine-red ensemble of buildings north-east of Roseneck, you are in the culinary epicentre of Schmargendorf. A branch of the Lindner delicatessen chain, the Habel restaurant, and the legendary Wiener Conditorei Caffeehaus café line up side by side. All three enjoy a cult status which extends far beyond the borders of Schmargendorf. In the case of ‘Butter Lindner’ — as most people still call Linder shops, despite the ‘butter’ part having been dropped since 2005 — it is even a Schmargendorf original. Robert Lindner’s success story began here in 1950, when he first set up a stall at the weekly market on Kolberger Platz. He sold a few simple products, such as bread, lard and cheese — and of course his famous churned butter. His first shop was founded in 1964. Today, there are around 40 branches of Lindner in Berlin alone, which stock over 3000 delicatessen products. Lindner has even expanded as far as Hamburg. The butter still comes from the churn, of course, just as it used to.
The Wiener Conditorei Caffeehaus café has been in Schmargendorf since 1980. It is the best-known branch of the family business, now in its fourth generation of providing its clientele with cakes and pastries. It all started with a patisserie next to Charlottenburg Palace, but there are branches in Dahlem, Westend and Grunewald now too. Of all these, however, it has become an institution to enjoy a slice of cake under the red awning at the branch on Roseneck.
The Wiener Caffeehaus — just like the neighbouring Habel restaurant — is often said to be a meeting place for the ‘rich and famous’, where the ‘old West Berlin’ meets. A brief newspaper report from October 2020 might illustrate the type of crowd in question. It stated that an 84-year-old woman had rammed her vehicle into another car while parking in front of the Wiener coffee house, before losing control of it and only coming to a halt in the café’s dining area. Fortunately, no one was seriously injured. The damage to the other car, however, must have been very costly indeed: it was a Maserati.

At Roseneck

The triangular rosebed at the junction of Teplitzer Strasse and Hohenzollerndamm is pretty and petite. But Roseneck marks a border: Schmargendorf’s border runs right along here. The enormous oriental palace directly opposite is the embassy of the Emirate of Qatar. That, however, is already in the district of Grunewald. The triangular road around the rosebed was the terminal loop of the first tramline connecting Schmargendorf with the Ringbahn circle line. Until the mid-1950s, trams travelled along the streets Hundekehle, Breite Strasse, and Hohenzollerndamm to Schmargendorf. After this, a new era saw mainly buses being used as transportation, which were supposedly faster than trams. This new era was also clearly visible elsewhere on Roseneck. In 1955, Berlin built its first residential tower block here. At a height of fifteen stories, the building’s Y-shaped floor plan was perceived as particularly impressive. This meant that all apartments had at least one south-facing room. A place in the sun for every resident. The apartment block on Roseneck is a post-war building in every sense, right down to the building materials used. The building is constructed of reinforced concrete, and has an outer layer made of brick chips obtained from piled-up rubble from World War II. This method became popular in the years that followed, having been successfully tested here for the first time.
The kiosk on the corner of Rheinbabenallee, on the other hand, is made of wood. It dates from the 1960s and was derelict for a long time until the Schmargendorf initiative, WIRSIND – BERLINER (we are Berliners), was founded in 2020. Its efforts saved the shop from demolition, breathing new life into it. Called the ‘Platzhirschkiosk’ (top dog kiosk), it not only serves coffee and snacks, but is also a meeting place for WIRSsIND – BERLINER. The flower-decorated kiosk is a cosy little spot to while away the time…in the large, feel-good oasis that is Schmargendorf.

Route Schmargendorf

The city walk is also available on komoot. Further information can be found on the komoot website.